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The Itinerary
Once you have cleared customs in Istanbul and purchased your Turkish travel visa, you will be met by our guide and escorted through the airport to the domestic terminal for our flight to Adana, the fourth largest city in Turkey and a key point on The Silk Route. We will check in to our hotel, have dinner and entertain a briefing by our guide, Mehmet Uzan. We will be exploring the Eastern Mediterranean Coast which is much less populous than the western portion. I understand that it has a much more Middle Eastern feel, with lively and colorful bazaars and the strong scent of spices in the air. Particularly in Antakya. It should be nice and warm. Staying at: Hilton - Adana
Antioch, the present-day Antakya, was founded in 300 BC, became the third largest city in the Roman Empire and was an important Christian center. Because of its geographical position, Antioch was a melting pot of Hellenistic and Asian worlds. Its prosperity and mild climate turned the Antiocheses into people who welcomed all kinds of vanities, pleasures and excesses. Given this rather hedonistic culture, it was easy for a new religion to spring up and gather momentum among the Gentiles of Antioch. It was here in Antioch that the word "Christian" was first coined and St. Paul, St. Peter and Barnabus all had significant ministries in Antioch. We will visit the Archaeological Museum to see the superb mosaics, go on to see St. Peter's Grotto, the meeting place of early Christians, and prevail upon our guide to take us to the bazaar for shopping in one of the best markets in all of Turkey, set in the ancient Jewish neighborhood of St. Peter’s time. One completely unique item we will see will be colorful round straw trays, used as oversize serving dishes. As they are made by the old women of the village, soon they will no longer be available and in all of Turkey, they are only found here. We will venture on to Seleucia ad Piera (modern day Cevlik) which was originally the port of Antioch. We’ll continue to the fascinating Titus Tunnel and the rock tombs. We will hear Arabic spoken in this area and Mr. Uzan will introduce us to some particular Arabic culinary treats like sam orugu, wheaten balls filled with minced meat and walnuts. Staying at: Buyuk Antakya Hotel
We will join a long line of people who have journeyed to Urfa. It is one of the greatest religious and historical sites in Turkey, which is saying a mouthful. Not just American tourists, but Hittites, Assyrians, Greeks, Romans, Persians, Arabs, Turks, Armenians, Byzantines and finally, the Ottomans, have all come to Urfa at one time or another in its 5500 year existence. Everybody wanted a piece of Urfa, due in no small part to the fact that it was an important stop on the Fertile Crescent route, stretching from the Mediterranean to Upper Mesopotamia. Alexander the Great changed Urfa’s name (to Edessa), the Ottomans changed it again (to Urfa) and these days it goes by Sanliurfa (‘Glorious Urfa’), but by any name, exotic Urfa still casts a spell on anyone who ventures to its shady courtyards filled with men in baggy pants swilling tea and playing backgammon or to the maze of bazaar streets, pungent with the scent of cheese and spices. But the highlight of the day surely will be the story of Ibrahim and Nimrod, the Assyrian king. Mr. Uzan will tell us the story that has survived the ages and we’ll visit the site of a key piece of the story, the mosque of Halil Rahman. We will stop in at the stone covered bazaar to check out the locally produced cloth and sample the local specialties: cig kofte (raw meatballs), the dish of the Hittite kings, and lahmacun, flat, pizza-like bread topped with spicy meat. Urfa has a distinct and marked Arabic influence and an authentic ambiance that is not to be missed! Staying at: Hotel Harran
We will pass by the gigantic Ataturk Dam on our way through Kahta, our base camp for our expedition to Nemrut Dagi National Park, chock full of stunning scenery, historical sites and gigantic homage to royal mega-egos. Staying at: Zeus Hotel
We will leave in the darkness of early morning to Mt. Nemrut where astounding terraces cut into the top of the mountain, east, west, and north, await us with their unparalleled funerary statues. King Antiochus built this colossal tribute to himself, to the Greco-Persian gods and to his Persian ancestors. The fabulous statues of lions, eagles, Zeus, Apollo, Hercules and Antiochus himself will greet us in the light of sunrise, which Mr. Uzan assures me will be incomparable to anything we have ever seen before. Once we come down from the mountain, we’ll head for Diyarbakir, crossing the waters of the GAP-created lake on the Euphrates River to see the Arab-style Grand Mosque, the circuitous Byzantine city walls, second only to the Great Wall of China, and the Church of the Virgin Mary, the triumph of Armenian architecture We'll continue on to the ancient city of Mardin, where it is possible to look out over the vast, Mesopotamian plains into Syria. The architecture is highly reminiscent of the feel of old Jerusalem and the interplay of the light and the stone is nothing short of magic. We'll shop the bazaar for the exquisite silver jewelry, watch the saddle makers and bench carvers at work and browse the superb handicrafts for sale including local fertility goddesses. We’ll discover the Sultan Isa Medresesi, the town's prime architectural attraction. We'll sample the local specialties: grilled cheese, roasted lamb with quince and pistachio ice cream. And as a special highlight, Mr. Uzan will arrange for an optional cooking class at an additional fee for those that are interested. We will visit the Monastery of Deyr ul Zaferan, the once seat of the Syrian Orthodoxy, an amazing compound off the beaten track and Kasimiye Medresesi, sublimity in courtyards, colonnades and arched doorways. Staying at: Erdoba Evleri
On the way to Van, we will visit Hasan Keyf on our way to the Malabadi Bridge. It will be a bittersweet visit as this unique and lovely area will be under water after the dam construction is finished. The city sits atop a narrow passage of the Tigris River, honeycombed out of the tawny rocks. We will explore the caves housing shops and homes, climbing up and through the rocks. Some might prefer to wait in a cool and shaded cave where there will be a simple picnic lunch. Hasan Keyf will be singularly amazing. The area at large was the home of the Uratians, who were arch rivals of the Asyrians and is not unlike Switzerland with soaring, rocky, snow covered peaks and the spectacular Lake Van, lovely for swimming; the lake is often referred to as the piece de resistance of eastern Anatolia. We will tour the city Van, an engaging and liberal urban center,and gasp at the gold jewelry at the Van museum; we'll stroll the promenade to see and be seen and we'll visit the workshops of the rug weavers, watching the famous kilims and carpets of the Van region as they flow out of the weavers’ fingers. We’ll see, hot off the looms, Turkish, Armenian, Kurdish and Persian rugs as the final knots are tied. An absolute must when in Van. Some might want to skip breakfast at the hotel and for an additional fee, venture out to Breakfast Street for the yummiest breakfast in all of Turkey--kahvalti. We'll discover otlu peynir, cheese mixed with a tangy herb; the specialty of Van, beyaz peynir, a mild yellow cheese; honey from the highlands, olives, clotted cream, butter , tomatoes and eggs. mmmmm, mmmmm. kahvalti! We'll venture to Cavustepe, the site of an Urartian citadel, carved into the rocky mountain and a dazzling example of the genius of Urartian engineering. Staying at: Merit Sahmaran Hotel
We'll stop at Dogu Beyazit as we drive to Kars. Mount Ararat soars above Dogu Beyazit at 16,000 feet and is largely believed to be the resting place of Noah's Ark. We'll see the impressive Ishak Pasa Palace at Dogu Beyazit, an amalgamation of castle-palace-mosque, built sometime in the 17th century. The exact time is difficult to place because of the blend of architectural styles, Ottoman, Persian, Armenian/Georgian and Seljuk. It was an important stop on the caravan route, explaining why this vast fortress-like palace, complete with harem, was built in the middle of nowhere. It is the epitome of One Thousand and One Nights. Once in Kars, we'll see the snowy peaks of tall mountains on the distant horizon. We'll visit the Archaeological Museum to see the kilims and carpets. We'll drive to the extraordinary ruins of Ani, one of the most evocative historical sites in all of Turkey. Ani was not only capital of the Urartian state but of the Armenian kingdom as well. Its eerie ambiance amid spectacular scenery makes it singularly unforgettable. Staying at: Sim-er Hotel
Erzurum was a key component of the trade routes to India and as a result, was fought over and ruled by many people. We'll see the most beautiful building in Erzurum, the Yakit Seminary, with elaborate carved stonework and the symbol of Erzurum itself, the minarets of the Twin Minaret Seminary. Erzurum is a university town, with a highly contrasting 'peoplescape'. It's here on the road to Artvin that the heart and soul of traditional, rural Eastern Anatolia will unfold and reveal itself. A tapestry of bucolic ambiance, with lakes, rivers, mountains, lush valleys, forests, pastures, traditional wood houses, villages, grazing cattle and sheep, unspoiled and untraveled, provide the quintessential setting for the Georgian churches we will visit, the Vank Monastery and the Ishan Church. We'll follow the course of the Coruh River along narrow, exhilarating gorges and then climb into the mountains to reach the picturesque coast of the Black Sea. Staying at: Dedeman Hotel
We’ll see the strong Russian influence here as Hopa is the last stop before Georgia, formerly of the USSR. It is an outpost or garrison town and we’ll see a military presence but Hopa will be but a pit stop between Eruzurum and Trabzon. Hopa is also tea plantation country and we’ll have plenty of opportunity to see the tea grow in the super moist air of the Black Sea. We’ll look for the flowering bud of the growing bush and sample the best teas on the road to Trabzon. Staying at: Peronti Hotel
We will wind our way along the coastal road of the Black Sea that has magnificent, soaring mountains on one side and the inviting sea on the other. We will visit the famous Greek Orthodox Sumela Monastery built in the 6th on a steep and rocky slope amid lush evergreens and rushing streams and abandoned only in 1923. Fine frescoes remain on the walls of the church in the monastery, set in the swirling mists of a mysterious and magical forest. Once we arrive in the port town of Trabzon, we'll hit the Russian Bazaar and shop for leather at significantly lower prices than in Istanbul. We’ll hear Russian spoken everywhere but the yesteryear voices of the Greeks, the Byzantines, the Genoese, and the Venetians will float in the air. Trabzon is the major seaport on the Black Sea and we’ll see not only many ships at port, but boats and ships being built. The cuisine here is unique to Turkey and feature savory cabbage dishes. Mr. Uzan will want us to sample the stuffed cabbage rolls, labana sarmasi, and taste the savory labana lobia, or cabbage and beans. Muhlama and kuymak are fondue-like presentations of warm cheese, scooped up with hunks of fresh bread. I understand the rock star of the Black Sea cuisine, though, is the laz boregi, a dessert of pastry and custard. Whether it’s Mick or Eric will be up for debate in Trabzon by the sea. Staying at: Grand Zorlu Hotel
This evening we will fly to Istanbul and bid a sad farewell to Mr. Uzan who has a new group of pilgrims waiting for him in Adana. You can book your return flight to the US on October 31 or you may opt to extend your stay in Istanbul for a day or two to explore the fourth largest city in the world and the crossroads of Occidental and Oriental. Mr. Uzan will arrange a guide for those who wish to extend their stay and will help with the additional hotel stay, advising us of the additional cost involved.
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